Angels Landing
Up early ( 10:30) and ready to explore Zion Canyon. After the sampling the resort’s breakfast of Biscuits ‘n Gravy, we were ready to tackle another of the many trails in Zion Canyon. We weren’t sure which trail to take, so we turned to the Zion National Park Map and Guide. They have eighteen hikes listed in their Hiking Guide divided into Easy, Moderate, and Strenuous. What the heck, this will be our last day in the park, so we went for the Strenuous. The Guide had a picture of some hikers walking along a trail while hanging onto a support chain which had been installed along a section of the trail. This would be the hike.
The trail started off following along the Virgin River for about 1/3 mile. Then it doubled back and started heading up the mountain; 100 yards forward with a 15 foot elevation gain, then zigzag back and up for another hundred yards. The trail followed this pattern with the straight stretches reducing from 100 yards, to 50 yards, 100 feet, 25 feet, and near the top the trail went only 10 feet forward with a 10 foot elevation gain before switching back again. Now that’s climbing!
With Julianna leading the way I finally managed to make it to the first plateau, huffing and puffing like The Little Engine That Could. Every so often Juliana would look back and ask “Are you OK grandpa”; “Is your heart OK grandpa”; “Would you like to rest grandpa”? Give me a break! I won’t be seventy ‘till next month.
As we were hiking, we had encountered many groups of college students, fresh from graduation exercises from the nearby colleges of BYU, Snow and others. As we zigzagged up the trail, some of the other groups ahead of us had already reached the first plateau or landing. It was now their duty as the younger generation to let out all their cat calls; Hellooooo, Yodel-e-hi-hoo, Marco--Polo, all the standard calls, and of course the final clarion call of R-i-c-o-l-a!
Julianna and I continued right on up to the next level. After about fifty feet, the trail narrowed considerably, from about two feet wide, down to one foot and then down to eight inches. Suddenly the trail seemed to disappear altogether and was replaced by a chain attached to the side of the cliff. With widths of five inches, then only two inches, the trail continued on. As I proceeded on, my hand became frozen to the chain. I inched along the trail with of strides of 6 to 7 inches in length, counting each link as I went, rather than look down the other side of the two inch trail to a sheer cliff which I am sure went straight down to a depth of at least seven miles. I was going so slow that Julianna had long since left me in the dust, and she was not even hanging on to the chain. Occasionally I would run into a person on their way back down; faces drained of any sign of life, eyes glued into the side of the mountain, and their knuckles white from griping on to the chain. Was this to be my fate? What had I done to myself? After inching along the final section of chain, I was greeted by the calm and reassuring eyes of Juliana. “OK grandpa; let’s go on to the next section”. And to think that this is my own grandchild! There were fifteen people or so resting on the landing, some on the return trip, some contemplating whether they should continue on or just jump over the edge and end it all right now. Wimps!
I really can’t tell you much about the rest of the trail. My final traverse was done strictly on automatic pilot. I grabbed onto the chain so tight that I am sure I left indents in it from my fingers. My eyes were tightly closed and I no longer stepped, I just shuffled. Slide one foot forward two inches, bring up the other foot until they touched; step, slide, step, slide. After what seemed like an eternity I finally reached the final resting place, not mine, but that of the trail; or so I thought. After I pried my cramped hands from the length of chain and opened my eyes, I could see that there was still yet another section of trail to cover. This section was almost straight up. I could see others braver than myself fighting back tears as they slowly descended down the trail, hanging on to the section of chain as if it were the very umbilical cord which brought them into this totally unfair life.
And then Julianna showed her true colors. “You can wait here while I go up the rest of the way if you want grandpa”. What a lovely child. “You go ahead” I said, “I think I will rest here for a while”. Oh sure, as soon as you’re gone I will get my sorry … off of this mountain!
I rested for a while, talking with some others who had finished the climb; and others, older and wiser like myself, who were just waiting for the rest of their party to return from the top. After a slight rest, and mustering every last ounce of courage I had, I began to retrace my steps back along the chain linked sections of trail down to the previous level. I gained some comfort in the fact that there were two rangers following me down the chain traverse. Whether they just happened along or whether they thought that I looked like a leaper, I don't know; don't much care either.
Finally I reached the last of the lifeline chain section of the trail and could now sit back with the comfort of knowing that I was still alive and that I just had to wait for Julianna's return. I sat down and talked with some other hikers about the final ascent, but it wasn’t long before Julianna returned, full of exuberance and telling me of the great hike and the spectacular views.
At last we were on our way down, and it wasn’t long before we reached the secure switchback portion of the trail. I looked back over my shoulder at that old serpent of a trail; good riddance I thought. As I looked back I could see an older lady half way down the chain trail from the top. She had made it to the top, but by the way she was shaking and just inching along, I knew that she wasn’t enjoying it. Just look at her tremble. Such tiny baby steps she was taking, and she still has two chain lengths of trail to go. Well, she isn’t going to make it. She will probably fall past us on the way down, screaming and kicking for every bit of the 1500 foot drop to the bottom.
Well, that’s all behind us now. I know I could have made it up that last section of trail, but I didn’t want to slow everyone else down. Now Julianna, she is something else; that girl is truly amazing.
The trail started off following along the Virgin River for about 1/3 mile. Then it doubled back and started heading up the mountain; 100 yards forward with a 15 foot elevation gain, then zigzag back and up for another hundred yards. The trail followed this pattern with the straight stretches reducing from 100 yards, to 50 yards, 100 feet, 25 feet, and near the top the trail went only 10 feet forward with a 10 foot elevation gain before switching back again. Now that’s climbing!
With Julianna leading the way I finally managed to make it to the first plateau, huffing and puffing like The Little Engine That Could. Every so often Juliana would look back and ask “Are you OK grandpa”; “Is your heart OK grandpa”; “Would you like to rest grandpa”? Give me a break! I won’t be seventy ‘till next month.
As we were hiking, we had encountered many groups of college students, fresh from graduation exercises from the nearby colleges of BYU, Snow and others. As we zigzagged up the trail, some of the other groups ahead of us had already reached the first plateau or landing. It was now their duty as the younger generation to let out all their cat calls; Hellooooo, Yodel-e-hi-hoo, Marco--Polo, all the standard calls, and of course the final clarion call of R-i-c-o-l-a!
Julianna and I continued right on up to the next level. After about fifty feet, the trail narrowed considerably, from about two feet wide, down to one foot and then down to eight inches. Suddenly the trail seemed to disappear altogether and was replaced by a chain attached to the side of the cliff. With widths of five inches, then only two inches, the trail continued on. As I proceeded on, my hand became frozen to the chain. I inched along the trail with of strides of 6 to 7 inches in length, counting each link as I went, rather than look down the other side of the two inch trail to a sheer cliff which I am sure went straight down to a depth of at least seven miles. I was going so slow that Julianna had long since left me in the dust, and she was not even hanging on to the chain. Occasionally I would run into a person on their way back down; faces drained of any sign of life, eyes glued into the side of the mountain, and their knuckles white from griping on to the chain. Was this to be my fate? What had I done to myself? After inching along the final section of chain, I was greeted by the calm and reassuring eyes of Juliana. “OK grandpa; let’s go on to the next section”. And to think that this is my own grandchild! There were fifteen people or so resting on the landing, some on the return trip, some contemplating whether they should continue on or just jump over the edge and end it all right now. Wimps!
I really can’t tell you much about the rest of the trail. My final traverse was done strictly on automatic pilot. I grabbed onto the chain so tight that I am sure I left indents in it from my fingers. My eyes were tightly closed and I no longer stepped, I just shuffled. Slide one foot forward two inches, bring up the other foot until they touched; step, slide, step, slide. After what seemed like an eternity I finally reached the final resting place, not mine, but that of the trail; or so I thought. After I pried my cramped hands from the length of chain and opened my eyes, I could see that there was still yet another section of trail to cover. This section was almost straight up. I could see others braver than myself fighting back tears as they slowly descended down the trail, hanging on to the section of chain as if it were the very umbilical cord which brought them into this totally unfair life.
And then Julianna showed her true colors. “You can wait here while I go up the rest of the way if you want grandpa”. What a lovely child. “You go ahead” I said, “I think I will rest here for a while”. Oh sure, as soon as you’re gone I will get my sorry … off of this mountain!
I rested for a while, talking with some others who had finished the climb; and others, older and wiser like myself, who were just waiting for the rest of their party to return from the top. After a slight rest, and mustering every last ounce of courage I had, I began to retrace my steps back along the chain linked sections of trail down to the previous level. I gained some comfort in the fact that there were two rangers following me down the chain traverse. Whether they just happened along or whether they thought that I looked like a leaper, I don't know; don't much care either.
Finally I reached the last of the lifeline chain section of the trail and could now sit back with the comfort of knowing that I was still alive and that I just had to wait for Julianna's return. I sat down and talked with some other hikers about the final ascent, but it wasn’t long before Julianna returned, full of exuberance and telling me of the great hike and the spectacular views.
At last we were on our way down, and it wasn’t long before we reached the secure switchback portion of the trail. I looked back over my shoulder at that old serpent of a trail; good riddance I thought. As I looked back I could see an older lady half way down the chain trail from the top. She had made it to the top, but by the way she was shaking and just inching along, I knew that she wasn’t enjoying it. Just look at her tremble. Such tiny baby steps she was taking, and she still has two chain lengths of trail to go. Well, she isn’t going to make it. She will probably fall past us on the way down, screaming and kicking for every bit of the 1500 foot drop to the bottom.
Well, that’s all behind us now. I know I could have made it up that last section of trail, but I didn’t want to slow everyone else down. Now Julianna, she is something else; that girl is truly amazing.
Since I managed to leave my camera behind in the RV, I have borrowed pictures from others about the trail; then there is one awesome youtube video shot by two adventurous young men which you do not want to miss.
Youtube video:
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